Burma, or Myanmar as it is called by the Military Junta, is a country where magnificent and ancient Buddhist temples gaze out serenely over a nation restless for change. Burma has plenty of wonders for the eye--sinuous, life-giving rivers, lush mountain forests, and intricately-drawn cities--but it can also trouble the soul. For the last 30 years, its people have been ruled by a notoriously repressive military government, the tatmadaw.